What is the best gun cleaning products?

Weapon Shield and a Bore Snake. If you haven't tried Weapon Shield you may be as surprised as I was.It was reccomended to me by a local gunsmith.
It is a excellant cleaner and lube.
Break Free Powder Blast to strip it off...
Break Free CLP to lube and protect...

Bore snakes are the best invention since... inventions.

Got this reply from a gunsmith: Use W.D. 40 AND MOTOR OIL? I didn't know what to think after that one. His main business is building full auto's for the police and AK47'S, M15's. He's been in business for 40+years but I still question his choice of lubricant.
I had always used Hoppe's #9 solvent. I recently asked a co-worker what he uses because he has been shooting and reloading for years. He said he uses "Shooter's Choice". I told him what I had been using and he stated that SC works better than Hoppes #9 for him. He said it costs more, but it's worth it. He even brought some to work for me. Can't wait to try it out.
I've been using Weapon Shield, a CLP type product that seems to do a very nice job. I'm a Newbee, so don't have much experience with other products. Love the Bore Snake.:big_boss:
After reading the tests on the Gun Zone I think I am sold on Break Free CLP which I have used or EEZOX which I have not yet had a chance to try.
I have a problem with the CLP idea of gun maintenance. If it is all in one product, why does the cleaner not mess up the LP part of the operation, since they go on at the same time. The cleaner will clean off the LP part.

I useLink Removed. I use the Link Removed, which is not toxic, to clean and then use the Link Removed or the MC2500 oil, which ever is appropriate for the point to be lubricated.

I can clean guns and my wife does not complain because there is no unpleasant odor and my guns run better than ever. So it makes my wife and my guns happy and that makes me happy.:biggrin:

By the way, these are the products recommended by Sig for their guns.
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Anybody use motoroil? I've used it in a pinch and seems to work very well...would go a long way. The instructor I had for my concealed carry class says he uses it as his main lubricant.

All I have ever used to lubricate my firearms is Mobil 1 Motor Oil, ATF, (Automatic Transmission Fluid), and for very high pressure friction points like bolt lugs on bolt action rifles and hinge pins on O/U shotguns I will use a small amount of STP. I have never had a a gun rust or fail because of a lubrication issue in over 45 years.

Gun oils and greases are overpriced "snake oils" in fancy packaging, nothing more. Know what a Castrol Rep told me your getting when you spend $8.00 for a bottle of "Castrol / Hoppes Synthetic Gun Oil"? Castrol Syntec Motor Oil with an emulsifier added to it. You can buy it all day for around $4.50 @ quart, or pay $8.00 for 4 ounces of it in a fancy brushed Aluminum pump bottle. Same with a lot of these "Gun Greases".

Go into any auto parts store and you can buy a large tube of Moly Grease that will last the average shooter a lifetime for a couple of bucks. It's as good, or better than these miracle gun greases they sell for over $10.00 for a 1/4 ounce! An even better product is the Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease. It comes in a 1 pound tub for around $6.00. If you like the fancy hypo type applicator, you can get one at Walgreens, or most any other drug store for around .25 to .50 cents, and it's refillable too boot.

Mobil 1 can be tailored to your climate just as you would if you used it in your car. If you shoot or hunt in very frigid climate it comes in a 0W-20 grade that won't stiffen up in cold weather. Here in Arizona we don't get much cold weather, but in the Summer it can get blistering hot so I use the 10W-40 or the 20W-50 grade. It has a nice viscosity that won't run off metal and dry up in a few days like some of these water thin gun oils like "Rem-Oil" will. Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube has an even higher viscosity that works well on guns that tend to be run at higher temperatures like AR-15's and AK-47's. It comes in a 75W-140 Grade. ATF is a very clean non gumming lubricant that works well for lubricating semi autos and fast moving parts like slides and even trigger mechanisms. I'm not a believer of these so called "dry lubes". 47 years of shooting has taught me one very simple fact. If I can see oil on my firearms, I know I won't be seeing any rust.

All 3 of these products can be purchased at any auto parts store for around $20.00, and will last the average shooter for years, if not a lifetime. I won't overpay for these gun lubes that do nothing better except make you poorer. Bill T.


All The Lubrication Any Firearm Will Ever Require
I don't use automotive products but I'l with billt - I don't trust dry lubricants to stave off rust.
Last time I my wife and I went to the range I used some tri-flow on the slides in lieu of grease.
I've used the stuff for years in other applications.. it's like liquid bearings. We'll see how it works, I'm heading to the range this coming weekend.
Be very careful with WD40 as it will weaken stainless steel and remove nickel from a nickel plated gun. This according to Ed Harris, renowned gun enthusiast American Rifleman guest writer.
i have been using CLP for the last 20 years as a cleaner, But now i have been using Birchwood Casey products. Mostly the gunscrubber and sheath items. Can't beat Boresnakes for quick cleaning. But the best thing i have ever used to clean small parts with is an old used dental tool ultra sonic cleaner. That gets rid of everything. For deleading and copper fouling removal every 5000rnds or so i use an outers Foulout 3 electrochemical cleaner.

Now for a lube i just started using slipstream oil and grease, they are sold by crusader weaponry in Utah. Go to WeThearmed.com and go to the link you can order it directly or through amazon.com.
Best gun cleaning products

There are many good products on the market for cleaning guns, but they must be used CORRECTLY. Don't get in the habit of spraying down your gun with WD-40 or CLP or any other product, wiping off the excess and dropping it in the holster. Those products are made to penetrate into the smallest places, and do so only too well, and can penetrate the primer cup and kill the round of ammo. There is no noise in the world louder than a click when you expect a bang, especially when an eight-foot tall monster is trying to bash your head in. I use Hoppe's No, 9, brushes and patches, and clean my XD-45 the way I was taught in a state prison armory. After cleaning and drying the piece, one or two drops of Remington reel oil on the frame rails and then a wipe down with a silicone gun cloth. Having a stainless weapon really helps. Make sure your weapon fires first time,every time.

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