Reloading Newbie


elkhuntCO

SEMPER FI
I am considering staring to try some reloading. My dad reloaded for quite a few years and I am going to try to get his old setup to start with. He doesn't use it any more, so I thought I would put it to use. My main reload calibers will be 30-06, 30-30, 38spl, 357mag,and I am considering buying a .204 Ruger for coyotes so I would probably reload for it also. My first question is what is the recommended reloading manual or are they all about the same. I also need to know if there is any problem reloading the nickel cases that the Winchester XP3 30-06 rounds come in. Most of my empty cases are from these rounds, as this is what I have been using for a few years, to kill elk. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris
Semper Fi
 

I asked a similar question on a forum "If you could only have one reloading manual what one would you choose"

Most replies indicated Lyman Because they do not manufacture bullets or powder and therefore may be less biased
 
I Use Sierra and RCBS for book references.

Lately, I have bought the One Book/One Calibers series for my calibers.

These contain data from all the manufacturers. The downside is that you need one book for each caliber.

In your situation, I would try the One Book series.

You can get these from Midway or Amazon.

-Doc
 
The "Modern Reloading 2nd Edition" has a lot of info and has great discussions on just about all aspects of reloading. $13.99 at Link Removed I also use an online service called AmmoGuide. Great source for info, forums for questions and discussions and a very, very large database of printable reloading data. $18.95 a year at AmmoGuide is now... "Interactive"!
 
I use Sierra,Speer,Nosler,Hornady,and all the freebies I can get from the powder companies. Sierra is my bullet of choice,(cause they're the BEST),but all of them have great information in them. Buy a reputable manual from the bulet company you plan on using and you will be fine. Good luck!
 
I collect reloading manuals I am a big fan of all the ones mentioned but my go to is the Lyman because of the versatility they offer and I shoot a lot of cast bullets.
 
I would suggest buying the book that came from the same outfit as your press, get the freebies when you can from the powder folks and collect the bullet manufacturers as you go. No such thing as too much documentation.
 
The nickel cases are just nickel coated and polished. I have used them in the past and I found that the nickel eventually wore off showing that they were brass. I had no complaints, I think you'll enjoy the new hobby.
 
I don't stick with 'One Book' because of misprints,
I ALWAYS check two or three books before starting to work up a new load just to make sure you stay safe...

The 'Cheap Way' to do it is to check the websites of the component manufacturers,
Almost all of them have FREE load data tables, and you can print what you want for specific calibers and make your own 'One Caliber' book that way...
 
You can also call Seirra's web site technical service by calling one of there bulletsmiths at 1.800.223.8799 you can talk any bullet, powder combo and they are expert reloaders plus they have all the bullet/reloading manuals at there service. Paul Box is one of the nicest guys I've dealt with there and has help me with some of the best bad a$$ loads I've every reloaded. I've talk to few of the other guys that are not to friendly but Paul is a great guy that is willing to help so I always ask for him.
 
The LEE manual is a generic compilation of information from a bunch of other manuals and doesn't specify bullet,case, or primer brand(in most cases). I use the Lyman regularly and it's worth the price. I try to keep a manual from the maker of my favorite bullet and most used powder company. I used to have just the Lyman but for the last couple of decades usually consult 2 or 3 manuals for corresponding data. If I see one manual showing a starting load at or close to another's max load or a wide disparity in velocities, I get very conservative and careful.
 
Start with the Lyman manual. Then work towards more specific manuals once you develop favorite bullets, powders, etc, and want to fine tune your loads.

Keep records of everything you do! Be meticulous.

The nickel cases are fine to reload, just watch for the plating to start rubbing off. This will usually occur at the pressure band first. Discard them when you see brass, because the nickel CAN build up in your dies and lead to a stuck case. Much less likely with carbide dies.

Good luck. Go slow. Read everything, follow the recipes to the letter. Be safe.
 
Another good place to get loading data is on line at the individual bullet manufacturers websites. I am a newbie to reloading as you are. My wife downloaded a ton of info from www.data.hodgdon.com
Hope this helps.
 

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