Reloading data

[SC Tiger]

I was looking at the Montana Gold Bullets webpage and I have a question. Where do you get reloading data for different combinations of bullets/powder/primer? I have a Speer reloading manual but would I need a manual for each brand of bullet (most I've seen are from the bullet manufacturer) or is there another reliable source for data? What made me think of this is that the Montana Gold Bullet website didn't have any reloading data on it that I could find, though I'm not specifically interested in that brand of bullets.

 

[Red Hat]

If you look at the top of this forum you will see a sticky for reloading supplies that will give you links for different manufactures data pages. http://www.usacarry.com/forums/handgun-ammunition-reloading/1265-reloading-supplies-websites.html All you need to know is if the bullet is jacketed or lead and weight of the bullet. I include plated bullets in the lead category. You don't need specific data for specific manufactures. Find the bullet type/weight and the powder you want and load to those specs.

 

[wooddoctor]

You will truly have fun with reloading. Load and shoot as often as you can to build your confidence. Always start out with the minimum loads and work your way up if you choose. Purchase several loading manuals and keep accurate notes and pay attention that you DO NOT DOUBLE CHARGE a case. Do not drink and load. Be safe.
Tell me what cal. you wish to reload .

 

[SC Tiger]

Thanks everyone.

wooddoctor - right now I am working with .44 magnum. I started with this one for four reasons:
1) Since the powder charges are higher, I figure the margin for error is also magnified. In other words, .1 grain higher or lower on the charge would have less of an effect (and less danger) on a 22-grain .44 Magnum charge as it would on a 4-grain 9mm charge.
2) My .44 magnum is a Ruger Vaquero. Rugers are the strongest revolvers out there, so if I do screw up the likelyhood of blowing the gun up is less.
3) As a revolver, I don't have to worry as much about case prep (crimping, etc). I figured I'd get the basics down first on charging, operating the press, setting the dies, inspecting the brass, etc. Once I am comfortable with that I will work on an auto, where case prep is more important.
4) I hate chasing brass!

I'm using an RCBS small press (I think it is called the SB5 - it's not the "Rock Chucker") with RCBS equipment and Lee Dies. The scale is the beam scale that came with the kit. I have an RCBS powder measure but when I moved I had a toolbox disappear (I think the movers honestly thought it was theirs) and the mounting bracket for this measure was in it. I've ordered another one along with a powder trickler and a primer pocket cleaner, though I still plan to weigh each charge. My media separator is a thing of beauty - a Wal-mart plastic collander over an old kitty litter bucket!

I eventually plan to load (in addition to .44 mag) .357 Mag, .38 Special, and .45 ACP. I might try 9mm and .380 but IIRC it is actually cheaper to purchase finished ammo than load 9mm, or at least it used to be. I will probably at least get some dies for these calibers. I may try .308 Winchester at some point but I don't know that my press is big enough to do rifle cases.

 

[billt]

Brand specific reloading manuals have become more popular today as a vehicle for bullet makers to sell more of their product. Now most every major manufacturer of bullets has one in publication. Many are on their third or fourth edition. With that said, they are not totally necessary. Lyman, for example has produced a "generic" loading manual, as have others. Their loads are given simply by weight, and by "jacketed" or "cast". I've used the same Lyman 45th Edition Reloading Manual with as much success today as I did when I first purchased it back in 1973.

When selecting loads from these manuals you just have to apply a little more common sense. For example, if you are loading a bullet with a larger bearing surface, or a thicker and heavier jacket that is more difficult to engrave into the rifling, you must back down your starting charge weight. Also, if you are loading for a non freebored rifle that is chambered for a Weatherby Mark V Magnum you must do the same. Other than that bullet specific manuals, while nice, aren't necessary. One of the very best loading manuals out there is Ken Waters Pet Loads. It encompasses a multitude of different powders and bullet makes and weights. I consider my copy to be one of the most valuable additions to my reloading library. It is not published by any one single manufacturer, but rather by an individual. In reloading, like most everything else in life, knowledge is power. In that regard I own more books than tools. Bill T.

 

[wooddoctor]

2400 powder is a great powder for the 44 mag. A little dirty but it is very accurate and consistent. I know other powders do well also but I have always liked the 2400. Make sure you inspect each case and with no obstruction in the primer hole. CCI LPM primers work well for my model 29 S&W. I started loading over thirty years ago model 28 357 S&W I love my revolvers, never ever had a misfire, the always went bang. About two years ago I started to get into the semi auto and have a good time target shooting them as well. Also, with the 2400 it is more difficult to double charge and not notice. I have two beam scales and just bought a digital as a cross check for the powder weight, check and double check. Have fun!!