Reload Knowledge Needed


You're right, I may not have stated it correctly. I have only used Redding series C for 30-06 rifle. My main bag is pistol, .357, 40 S&W, 45 acp, and 44 mag.

FlatFrog said:
Depends on manufacturer. My Lee 3 die set came with full length sizing/decapping die. Seating die and Lee factory crimp die. Read one of the above manuals and decide what you need what type of rifle and most importantly how much you want to pay. Then look at the various manufacturers and find what you need.

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Its ok flintlock62. From the name I see it is a big step moving to that newfangled cartridge system with this here "smokeless" powder. Lol

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Hey, I love the new fangled modern contraptions, but don't knock my flinter!:dance3:

Neck only sizing is still best! However, using reduced loads on neck only is recommended.

FlatFrog said:
Its ok flintlock62. From the name I see it is a big step moving to that newfangled cartridge system with this here "smokeless" powder. Lol

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What are you using to clean the Brass? I see Liquid sonic and I see tumblers using Walnuts. Seems like the tumblers would be more cost effective but the Sonic cleaner looks like it does a really great job.
 
Stainless tumbling media and LSD in dual rotary tumbler from harbor freight. 60$ and you dont need to buy more media or worry about dust which was my biggest dislike with walnut tumbler. Kept it initially but have since sold it. I would never suggest anything other than stainless but to each their own. Depends on how you reload.

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I use walnut hull medium. There is no need to go overboard with it, and believe it or not, you can get cases too clean. With a sonic cleaner, you have to dry the cases in a warm oven. With the stainless medium, you need a rotary tumbler which is a little on the expensive side.

I don't clean cases at all unless they're really dirty, which is usually range brass.

Kramer1113 said:
What are you using to clean the Brass? I see Liquid sonic and I see tumblers using Walnuts. Seems like the tumblers would be more cost effective but the Sonic cleaner looks like it does a really great job.
Click to expand...
 
Kramer1113 said:
Greetings Reloaders.

My Oldest son and I are going to try our hand at reloading.
Lee Press is on its way, its a simple 4 position Turret Press.
Questions are as follows:

Any suggestions for Powder Brand and type *Best Bang For The Buck* :wink:

Primers. I have no idea. Are my .45 ACP and 9mm Small or Large? My .223 and 5.56 Large or small? How about my sons .308, Small or large?

Where do you buy your FMJ bullets?

Any and all positive advice is greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

Congrats on getting into reloading! First thing is: FOLLOW THE MANUALS! Second thing is, get the manuals and books... as many as you can get. Old and new, some older loads aren't listed in newer manuals and you may find yourself getting into other loads in time or have a powder not listed in newer manuals but have access to them. Knowledge is power! Okay, now to your direct questions... Powders? Well, start with what the reputable manuals/books say works best. However, if you have my problem... you may find those powders hard to come by and therefore, you'll need to get what you can and make it work. This is where you may or may not have trouble getting data in newer manuals. You may also find that the powder you have isn't ideal, though it will still work just fine for target/practice ammo. I have had to use non-ideal powders for a few months now and have made due just fine! In fact, I don't mind having the small selection b/c while nobody else is buying a certain powder (in this case, IMR 800 X & 4007 SSC), I have near unlimited access to the stuff. Y'know, being as that they aren't ideal for many of the most popular powders. As of now, I have IMR 800 X, IMR 4007 SSC and Superformance... I use 800 X in .38Spl, 9x19, .45acp, .44Spl and .44mag with good results for target/practice ammo. I use 4007 SSC in .30-06, .30-30 WCF, .303, .223 and .308 with varying results. I use Superformance in .243 and 7x57... reserved as hunting loads.

I, for range ammo, load everything down (except .44mag) to moderate pressures/velocities to preserve my brass as long as I can. I load my .38Spl (w/ 140gr LFP) to around 750-800 fps, my 9x19 (w/115gr LRN) to 1050-1100 fps, my .45acp (w/ 230gr LRN) to 800 fps, .44Spl (w/ 200 gr LSWC) to 800 fps and my .44mag (w/ 240gr JSP) to 1100 fps. For range use, I shoot specials in the magnum.

The primers, well... read the manuals and don't experiment, there's no real need. .45acp, depending on brand and date of manufacture, will have either small pistol or large pistol... 9x19 will always be small pistol... so, buy both in bulk. You should have no issues using small rifle primers in .223, the .308 is large. I have heard of people getting pierced primers in AR-15s when using small primers... me, not so much. Bullets, you say? Well, for me... FMJ bullets have been tough to find at any LGS, I do get lucky here and there and grab some. I shoot lead bullets in my pistols more often than not. I know you don't plan one loading .38Spl but, in that cartridge I like Hornady Cowboy loads a lot after trying them. As an online source, I like rimrockbullets.net as they have a wide selection of almost any cast-bullet you want. I just bought another box of their 115gr LRN, .356 bullets for use in my 9x19s.

Good luck!
 
Kramer1113 said:
What are you using to clean the Brass? I see Liquid sonic and I see tumblers using Walnuts. Seems like the tumblers would be more cost effective but the Sonic cleaner looks like it does a really great job.
Click to expand...

I have an RCBS tumbler and use dry walnut hull... works for me. I'll toss the stuff in the tumbler, dump some brass and let it run while I'm doing... whatever. Depending on the condition of the brass, it may need to tumble for an hour or two. If it's chocolate-colored brass, you may want to use a sonic cleaner and solution. Me, I just let those pieces stay in the tumbler, tumbling with various calibers for however long it takes for it to be clean enough to load. Don't be fooled though, brass doesn't need to be spit-shined to work well and it being discolored won't necessarily cause any issues. I've reloaded and shot brass that was smooth and clean but discolored many times with no issues.
 
Gunnerbob what kind of velocity and accuracy for plinking .223 did you see with 4007 ssc? Always see it available but almost out of varget and blc2 and rather not waste it for plinking as they both shoot verywellbout if my ar.

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flintlock62 said:
I use walnut hull medium. There is no need to go overboard with it, and believe it or not, you can get cases too clean. With a sonic cleaner, you have to dry the cases in a warm oven. With the stainless medium, you need a rotary tumbler which is a little on the expensive side.

I don't clean cases at all unless they're really dirty, which is usually range brass.
Click to expand...

I use corn cob for real dirty brass, walnut for a finish. Dillon has a great mix to put in. I use a vibrator type and my brass is like jewelry. I have not had any issues with over clean. Worth noting is the fact I left some .40's in a coffee can with the walnut media for an extended time. They are not worth fooling with now, but I shall not throw them away, not with this climate of gun control. Who knows they may be worth bartering some time.
 
It's the sonic cleaner that gets them so clean that one needs lube even with carbide dies.

NotTwoShure said:
I use corn cob for real dirty brass, walnut for a finish. Dillon has a great mix to put in. I use a vibrator type and my brass is like jewelry. I have not had any issues with over clean. Worth noting is the fact I left some .40's in a coffee can with the walnut media for an extended time. They are not worth fooling with now, but I shall not throw them away, not with this climate of gun control. Who knows they may be worth bartering some time.
Click to expand...
 
gunnerbob said:
Congrats on getting into reloading! First thing is: FOLLOW THE MANUALS! Second thing is, get the manuals and books... as many as you can get. Old and new, some older loads aren't listed in newer manuals and you may find yourself getting into other loads in time or have a powder not listed in newer manuals but have access to them. Knowledge is power! Okay, now to your direct questions... Powders? Well, start with what the reputable manuals/books say works best. However, if you have my problem... you may find those powders hard to come by and therefore, you'll need to get what you can and make it work. This is where you may or may not have trouble getting data in newer manuals. You may also find that the powder you have isn't ideal, though it will still work just fine for target/practice ammo. I have had to use non-ideal powders for a few months now and have made due just fine! In fact, I don't mind having the small selection b/c while nobody else is buying a certain powder (in this case, IMR 800 X & 4007 SSC), I have near unlimited access to the stuff. Y'know, being as that they aren't ideal for many of the most popular powders. As of now, I have IMR 800 X, IMR 4007 SSC and Superformance... I use 800 X in .38Spl, 9x19, .45acp, .44Spl and .44mag with good results for target/practice ammo. I use 4007 SSC in .30-06, .30-30 WCF, .303, .223 and .308 with varying results. I use Superformance in .243 and 7x57... reserved as hunting loads.

I, for range ammo, load everything down (except .44mag) to moderate pressures/velocities to preserve my brass as long as I can. I load my .38Spl (w/ 140gr LFP) to around 750-800 fps, my 9x19 (w/115gr LRN) to 1050-1100 fps, my .45acp (w/ 230gr LRN) to 800 fps, .44Spl (w/ 200 gr LSWC) to 800 fps and my .44mag (w/ 240gr JSP) to 1100 fps. For range use, I shoot specials in the magnum.

The primers, well... read the manuals and don't experiment, there's no real need. .45acp, depending on brand and date of manufacture, will have either small pistol or large pistol... 9x19 will always be small pistol... so, buy both in bulk. You should have no issues using small rifle primers in .223, the .308 is large. I have heard of people getting pierced primers in AR-15s when using small primers... me, not so much. Bullets, you say? Well, for me... FMJ bullets have been tough to find at any LGS, I do get lucky here and there and grab some. I shoot lead bullets in my pistols more often than not. I know you don't plan one loading .38Spl but, in that cartridge I like Hornady Cowboy loads a lot after trying them. As an online source, I like rimrockbullets.net as they have a wide selection of almost any cast-bullet you want. I just bought another box of their 115gr LRN, .356 bullets for use in my 9x19s.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

gunnerbob, OMG I now have More work to do!
 
FlatFrog said:
Gunnerbob what kind of velocity and accuracy for plinking .223 did you see with 4007 ssc? Always see it available but almost out of varget and blc2 and rather not waste it for plinking as they both shoot verywellbout if my ar.

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Click to expand...

I load it to about 2,200-2,300 fps and see reasonable accuracy, though, I have not shot at anything past 100yds with them. I can hit a 1 gallon water jug @ 100yds consistently with these loads so, accuracy is good for me! I wouldn't count on it to perform all that well for hunting game past 100yds or any sort of long-range target practice, however, it may surprise me... IDK? Oh, yeah... the recommended bullet for this powder is heavier, 75gr. I'm sure you can figure on why, if you know reloading. Of course, with the heavier bullet you should preferably shoot it out of 1-8" twist (& tighter) barrels... so, the M4-type ARs and like rifles.
 
Kramer1113 said:
gunnerbob, OMG I now have More work to do!
Click to expand...

Meh, take your time and do the research... before you know it you'll have buckets of ammo! My wife and I went shooting Monday, ran through 150+ rounds of .38Spl, 100 rounds of 9mm, 100 rounds of .380acp and 100 rounds of .30 carbine while doing drills. Curiously enough, we were the only people doing actual drills that day... everybody else was leisurely plinking. Not to say that everybody needs to do reactive drills, just that I believe they should. Anyway, I always find it amusing when I get people watching me as I do speed shooting/reload drills with a .38Spl, Model 15 S&W... at a respectable pace w/ accuracy when they've got wizz-bang-ed, top of the line, laser this and light that, tacticool handguns... doing bag-rested shots at 25 yards. Heh...

Anyway, we got lucky and scored a HUGE amount of brass in all calibers from .32acp to .308! I would estimate we picked up around 1,000 pieces of brass! We filled two 100rd-bulk shotgun boxes and about a dozen 50rd, regular boxes with brass! That's a good day at the range for a reloader!
 
I clean my brass in a cheap $60 dollar tumbler with crushed corn cob. I tried the crushed walnut but it left a very light powder residue on the brass and didn't like it. The corn cob after 2-3 hours makes the brass look brand new.
 
gunnerbob said:
You should be good to go with those dies, you just won't have a neck-only sizer... which has it's places but, I don't use any of mine.
Click to expand...

I thought that was where I was going to be with this set (Reading some other sets contents) but wasn't sure it would be OK to run my .223 and 5.56 with.
 
walknotinfear said:
I clean my brass in a cheap $60 dollar tumbler with crushed corn cob. I tried the crushed walnut but it left a very light powder residue on the brass and didn't like it. The corn cob after 2-3 hours makes the brass look brand new.
Click to expand...

I often tumble new brass with the walnut, it makes, for me, it easier to load, that is on the Dillon 550. Star Line has given me trouble. Corn cob I use on dirty brass. All with the Dillon polishing fluid. But, that is for me. I try and keep all the same components that is brand but for a time Star Line was the only thing out there. Never leave brass in a coffee can with media for an extended time. I have some .40's that are very sad.
 
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