New to reloading

Thanks to all of you for keeping the thread going, I like some of the questions and typics that have been mentioned here.
Now that I have been reloading for a while (nowhere near some of you guys) one of my biggest issues solved. When I took my class the instructor told me to trim my 223 cases to 1.760 and I kept getting verying OAL no mater what I did to my seater die. I started trimming them to 1.750 (specs in the manuals) problem solved. Since a majority of my cases were not long enough to trim at the longer size I had case jumping all over the place, now all start at one length, I end up with equal finished cartridges.
On the equipment side I am still using my Lee turret press (damn it's slow) I am so ready to get my Hornady progressive. Soon very soon.
Also getting really close to opening my firearms and reloading supply shop.
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Thanks again

I am a licensed commercial reloader. You are definately on the right track in wanting to go with a progressive loader. Once you experience a progressive reloader you will become totally "hooked" on is definately the ONLY way to go!! However, if I may make a recommendation, I think you should look into a Dillon Precision progressive reloader.......specifically the XL650 or the Super 1050! Both are outstanding progressives and load a very consistent, quality cartridge. However, use the Lee dies, not the Dillon dies that will come with their machines......and use the Lee 4-die set whenever possible. Enjoy!!...and pay attention to what you're doing when you reload!!
Thank you again for keeping this going for any new reloaders out there that might come across this thread. I do have a near miss storry to share and hope this instills the importance of doing your quality checks.
I was helping out someone that was new to reloading and needed some help setting up his press (Lee Load Master) which I totally understand way I was told never learn on a progressive press. Anyway after setting up the press and having him run several practice cartridges I explained to him since he was new he needed to check at least every five cases for correct specs. The next day I got a call saying he fired 5 rounds and then his pistol would not feed, it was obvious what was wrong when I looked down the barrel. There was a bullet lodged just past the chamber, I then proceeded to take apart his remaining cartridges and found none at the 4.2 grain he was suppose to have. There were a few at 4.0, but the majority were well under 3.5-3.0 with 7 cases at. 06 or less. He definitely understood the inportance of doing his checks after that. I also had him learn our Lee Turret press and after seeing he had 200 finished correctly made. cartridges he went home packed up his Loadmaster and exchanged it for one of the turret presses. I know there are several other better quality presses out there and I am not trying to say that it was a press issue as much as it was a very valuable learning issue. I am sure others have learned on progressive presses, but please read this and understand whatever you are using REMEMBER to do your quality checks no mattter what it takes.
Thank you for reading this.
After you get past the initial setup cost (ie. reloader, dies, components, etc.) you will initially save about 30% over factory loaded ammunition. That is due to purchasing the brass initially. After that, the cost goes down significantly as you can reload your brass many times. A word of advice....don't scrimp on the quality of your powder. The powder you load is the cheapest part of the cartridge, so use a good, clean burning powder and you will be a much happier reloader and shooter.
As a commercial loader, I completely agree with kerstingm when he says that doing your checks is vitally important.....not to just the one shooting the reloaded ammo but to those standing around him as well. A squib load is a very dangerous thing and can injure or kill the shooter and/or those standing around him. So, absolutely, it can not be emphasized enough, PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND DO YOUR PERIODIC CHECKS!!! Have fun and be safe!!
The jig was likely a Lyman Case Length gauge, they are available at any of the large reloading outlets such as Midway USA, or Midsouth Shooters Supply. A vernier caliper will give you an exact measurement, it can be set at the maximum, minimum case length, or the manual's trim to length. If you lot your cases trimming your cases will not need to be done that often. Cases can be used anywhere between minimul and maximum lenght but I feel it is important that all cases being reloaded during a session be the same length. If you mix a bunch of different cases during the reloading process and the lengths are different your bullet seating depth will vary. (your OAL will remain consistant but your bullet seating depth will not).
A piece of advice... I've taken the time to do the math a few times and I've found it's actually more expensive to make all your rounds from scratch. I've found it cheaper to just buy factory ammo for starters and then reload that. I never buy brass unless I'm working up a long range match load.
A piece of advice... I've taken the time to do the math a few times and I've found it's actually more expensive to make all your rounds from scratch. I've found it cheaper to just buy factory ammo for starters and then reload that. I never buy brass unless I'm working up a long range match load.

Generally, I buy the cheapest target loads I can find... do my training and then if I desire I can load them up slightly from there or simply use cleaner powder.
I couldn't agree more with it is far more cheaper to purchase target rounds and than reload them. New brass is extremely expensive no matter what brand you get.
Another thing to consider while you're at the range ask the shooters next to you if you can cleanup their brass if they are not using it for reloading. If they are not wanting it for themselves they are usually more than happy to let YOU cleanup after them. .
The tool is a case length gage most come in multi standard cals.Buy a dial or dig.caliper soon you will use it a lot 20-50 $the more you learn the more it will pay off.I have made many case length gauges from sheet metal before I ever bought 1.Bullet casting isn't for everybody,,,but keep it in the back of your mind 90% of my loading has been cast loads for all handgun range ammo for 25 years pennies a round accept for time n great fun for the roll your own freaks.good luck n enjoy.
Progressive Loaders

I strongly recommend the Dillon progressive loader over any other....I think you will be much happier with a Dillon......but use Lee dies!!
I am new to the reloading part of our expensive sport. I did just finish a class where we were able to reload 50 pistol or 20 rifle rounds at the end of the class. So at this aspect I was able to get my hands dirty before I dropped a ton of money before I knew what I was getting into. I picked up a couple Lee Turret press starter kits at the gunshow yesterday for under $200. Eventually we want to get a Horady progressive, but for now we have enough to get started..
If anybody has any info on bulk bullet or brass please pass it on. I will also take any good info on presses, or reloading tips.
I also would go with the Dillion. Can't beat the life time warranty. I have called Dillion before and they sent me a part for free. Dillion rules!
I am a licensed ammo mfg and have 9 Dillon progressive loaders that I use for R&D and commercial loading......the Dillons turn out an outstanding cartridge and are very consistent. And Dillon's warranty is next to none with no hassels.
Thanks to everyone for keeping this thread going, still working with my Lee Turret press. Will definitely look at my options on here.

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