Anyone ever had or know about the Duracoat finish. I have an old AK that needs a new finish was thinking about this it comes in some cool paterns and colors. Does it hold up well? Is it hard to apply? Does anyone know where to have it professionally done in Missouri or Illinois?:wacko:
Duracoat finish? Bad or Good?
- Thread starter jblave
- Start date
stingray2100
New member
First here is the link to the manufacturer and a list of the certified companies that apply the finish.
Link Removed
DuraCoat is really good. I have a ISSC M22 and the factory finish on gun is terrible. Worst than car paint. So I made a few calls and I sent my slide to get it refinished with DuraCoat.
It looks awsome and I have beat the hell out of it and no chips or cracks on the finish and no issues with corrision. so in my humble opinion this finish rocks.
it is easy to apply, but is you want it done right send it to a professional so they can sand blast or beed blast the finish off and then apply a good coat of duracoat.
Link Removed is a good place to send your stuff.
hope it helps.
Link Removed
DuraCoat is really good. I have a ISSC M22 and the factory finish on gun is terrible. Worst than car paint. So I made a few calls and I sent my slide to get it refinished with DuraCoat.
It looks awsome and I have beat the hell out of it and no chips or cracks on the finish and no issues with corrision. so in my humble opinion this finish rocks.
it is easy to apply, but is you want it done right send it to a professional so they can sand blast or beed blast the finish off and then apply a good coat of duracoat.
Link Removed is a good place to send your stuff.
hope it helps.
I've got an M&P slide that is duracoated and while it looks good from a distance the coating chips when subjected to life and I would not ever do another.
I had the slide on my M&P pistol done in Duracoat last year and it's not bad. I have noticed that it is starting to wear a bit around the muzzle which is somewhat troubling considering I've only used it in 1 or 2 matches since I had it done.
If I were to do it again I would spend the extra money and have Robar do it in their NP3 coating.
If I were to do it again I would spend the extra money and have Robar do it in their NP3 coating.
Mad_River_Firearms
New member
What is the NP3 Coating that you are referring to and who is Robar and what is their Contact Info????
I was going to have my Beretta M9 Barrel Redone with the DuraCoating Finish as there is some Light Rusting on the Barrel and I wanted to get a Rust Resistant Finish done to Prevent it from Rusting again or to at least lessen it.
The_Rapscallion
New member
NP3/Robar
If interested in re-coating handgun personally prefer send it to the professionals for a topnotch job that will last:
NP3 by Robar - is great for all your metal pieces on handgun, which have found Duracoat better suited to the rest especially on polymer framed weapons.
Checkout this link: Robar Premium Finishing & Firearms Home Page
Lots of other premier product providers out there on the market as well but Robar got to be rated one of the best.
If interested in re-coating handgun personally prefer send it to the professionals for a topnotch job that will last:
NP3 by Robar - is great for all your metal pieces on handgun, which have found Duracoat better suited to the rest especially on polymer framed weapons.
Checkout this link: Robar Premium Finishing & Firearms Home Page
Lots of other premier product providers out there on the market as well but Robar got to be rated one of the best.
shadow106
Shadow106
I've had three weapons done with Duracoat. The Ruger 10/22 barrel in Socom chipped within two months. An HK USPC showed wear after daily care in a leather holster after one month, also Socom. The 2nd time the USPC slide was done, it was in a black finish that looked a lot like parkerizing, and that has held up really well since last year. I think the three smiths that did the work were learning the mixtures, and the 3rd one seems to have it right. Anymore will be sent to Robar for black, or Armalloy if its the satin SS look I'm after.
DefensiveImpact
New member
check out my site
Defensive Impact*|*Learn to use your tools safely and effectively.
I do a lot of AK's
Defensive Impact*|*Learn to use your tools safely and effectively.
I do a lot of AK's
sixguncowboy
New member
I have a 1911 Officer's Model that I had DuraCoated in Desert Sand two years ago. So far so good, no sign of wear. I have a friend here that does it. He gets most of his business by setting up at gun shows. I imagine that you'll find someone in Mo by attending local gun shows. He charges $130 per pistol. I have no idea what he gets for a rifle. I also know a gunsmith that charges the same for a pistol. It's not an easy process to do. The gun must be completely stripped & the parts to be coated have to be cleaned a certain way & then coated & the finish baked on @ a certain temp for a specified amount of time.
stingray2100
New member
you really get what you pay for.
If you want a good DuraCoat finish that will last you need to send it to someone that knows how to apply it. I agree with Sixguncowboy.
Anyone can DuraCoat, but not everyone does a good lasting job. The product will last a long time, but it depends on how the gun was stripped (beed blast) and cleaned and then the duracoat application.
I ask to have my guns parkerized first and then they apply the Duracoat and it lasts a long time.
anyway. it is the owners ultimate choice what they want to do with there guns.
Robar does an awsome job with there coating and custom jobs, but you pay for it.
sometimes the prices is as close to the cost of the firearm.
I like my guns with some battle scars...chicks digg it...! :laugh:
If you want a good DuraCoat finish that will last you need to send it to someone that knows how to apply it. I agree with Sixguncowboy.
Anyone can DuraCoat, but not everyone does a good lasting job. The product will last a long time, but it depends on how the gun was stripped (beed blast) and cleaned and then the duracoat application.
I ask to have my guns parkerized first and then they apply the Duracoat and it lasts a long time.
anyway. it is the owners ultimate choice what they want to do with there guns.
Robar does an awsome job with there coating and custom jobs, but you pay for it.
sometimes the prices is as close to the cost of the firearm.
I like my guns with some battle scars...chicks digg it...! :laugh:
Is duracoat good? It depends on who applies it and the amount of time and skill taken in doing a good prep job. If the weapon is not properly prepared for the actual coating, one would be better served by leaving the weapon in its current state. Same could be said for the bluing process.
I have two experiences with duracoat .I built a 10/22(17hm2)
and camoed it it duracoat.It's been about 3 years and all is well.
Last year i duracoated a para warthog slide.Paras finishes are junk.At least mine was.This duracoat job did not last 3 months.I believe it to be my fault .
I am going to try it again when I get the chance.Like any paint job it's all in the prep. My 10/17hm2 came out great ..I use it for squirrels,And the finish
has held up great.So i think i did a bad prep..WSo as soon as i can find some
person to bead blast my warthog slide I will do it again. I applied it with an airbrush.
and camoed it it duracoat.It's been about 3 years and all is well.
Last year i duracoated a para warthog slide.Paras finishes are junk.At least mine was.This duracoat job did not last 3 months.I believe it to be my fault .
I am going to try it again when I get the chance.Like any paint job it's all in the prep. My 10/17hm2 came out great ..I use it for squirrels,And the finish
has held up great.So i think i did a bad prep..WSo as soon as i can find some
person to bead blast my warthog slide I will do it again. I applied it with an airbrush.
MNBlackjack
New member
I have an AR-15 done in OD green Duracoat and I have no complaints at all. It looks great and wears great. It's the one on the right. 
Link Removed
Link Removed
SourwoodTom
New member
It isn't the coating, it is the application. Here's how I do it:
The surface must be ready to accept the duracoat. I typically use a fine media blast - it is especially important with stainless. I don't Duracoat over any other coating, I remove it. I then clean thoroughly with brake cleaner or acetone. ALL oils must be removed.
I will heat parts (with a 500 watt halogen light) to warm (not hot). This opens the pores, if you will, of the metal. Seems to accept the paint better. I apply in very light passes with a small gravity feed sprayer, not a venturi-type airbrush. I make sure that I use the correct proportion of paint and hardener. 12:1 (1 tablespoon paint to 1/4 teaspoon hardener)
I do all work inside a small booth I've built in the back of my shop. Dust will make for a poor finish. If you don't have the space for a few 2x4's and plastic sheeting, work in a garage with the door closed. Never refinish outside - too much junk in the air, humidity, paint waste, etc.
After painting, the parts need heat to cure faster. I have an old dishwasher that isn't connected to water, but has a heated drying cycle. I could have disposed of it when we got the new one, but it is perfect for baking pistol parts. If you use your oven, your food will taste like Duracoat smells.
I've attached the weapon I use in our local IPSC matches. It is a Springfield with 7000+ rounds since I refinished it. The bottom of the trigger has a little wear - very light aluminum and I'm not sure I got the prep right on it. Also the side of the grip safety has some marks from rubbing the frame. Amazingly, the slide rail have even held up - perhaps because of the high quality synthetic grease I use.
If you are patient and particular, you can do a professional job of refinishing at home. Take care with the prep, and don't rush the curing. If you can't bake the finish, be prepared to put in in a dehumidified safe for a month or so to allow the finish to harden.
shadow106
Shadow106
Duracoat
First Duracoat finish was on an HK USP Compact slide. Was applied professionally, & I let it "cure" for over 4 weeks before using. At less than 4 months, I had holster wear on the muzzle. 2nd weapon was a 10/22 barrel, by a different smith. Chipped within one month, after putting three mags through it. 3rd was a re-do on the HK slide. Lasted long enough for me to sell the weapon, but has done well for the new owner, and he shoots a LOT. All three smiths believe there was a problem with the catalyst on the original two pieces. I can't say, but I won't use it again. Too iffy.
First Duracoat finish was on an HK USP Compact slide. Was applied professionally, & I let it "cure" for over 4 weeks before using. At less than 4 months, I had holster wear on the muzzle. 2nd weapon was a 10/22 barrel, by a different smith. Chipped within one month, after putting three mags through it. 3rd was a re-do on the HK slide. Lasted long enough for me to sell the weapon, but has done well for the new owner, and he shoots a LOT. All three smiths believe there was a problem with the catalyst on the original two pieces. I can't say, but I won't use it again. Too iffy.
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