Kimber Ultra Recoil Spring Removal?


Hootus

New member
Kimber Ultra CDP II.... simple question: how do I remove the inner recoil spring?
 

bpenlandjr

New member
I have the same fantastic carry gun. Go to ebay, they make a plastic clip that you clip over the guide rod to make removal a breeze. Search for "kimber tool". Here is one:

Link Removed

Then youtube "kimber ultra take down tool" and you will find step by step directions.

Good luck!
 

danielp

New member
Do you have the Kimber guide rod take down tool? What I normally do is lock back the slide insert the take down tool per normal. Once the slide is off I remove the whole guide rod assembly then take the barrel out. Then I reinsert the guide rod assembly and carefully press the spring until I can slip the take down tool out (wear eye protection). Then gently release tension on the spring. Then you can take the spring out of the assembly. Reverse the process to install a new spring.
 

Hootus

New member
I'm a little confused. That works for the outside/larger recoil spring, but does not remove the smaller/inside spring that is housed within the guide rod housing. Unless I do not understand your reply (?) Are you talking about the Ultra guide rod system for 3" barrels?
 

danielp

New member
Sorry I was referring to the Pro recoil spring. Here is a link to instructions for the Ultra. Looks like a fun project!
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=271754
 

stingray2100

New member
hahaha that is a "fun" project. geez....!

I would pay the $50.00 just to eliminate the finger pain...If you can buy a Kimber you can spend $50 on the guide rod assembly and springs.
 

cawpin

New member
Why do you want to, or need to, take it apart? I'm not trying to be a prick, just asking. I completely disassemble every gun I buy but don't take them apart further than is necessary for cleaning normally.
 

rifleshooter474

New member
The best thing to do is get a backup replacement spring Assy. from Kimber custom Shop, and take advantage of their rebuilding plan for your recoil spring Assy.
They just sent me a new unit at the rebuild price, don't think they mess with rebuilding them.
Trust me this is the best way to get it done.
 

Hootus

New member
In answer to the "why" inquiries,

I am having a FTF issue every once in awhile with JHPs. The nose of the bullet stops midway up the barrel feed ramp. When it happens I can barely tap the back of the slide and the round will then easily finish going into battery. I plan to do 2 things:

(1) polish the ramp lightly to hopefully smooth it up somewhat; and
(2) install a set of Wolff springs that are 3 lbs heavier than stock.

The Wolff springs are an attempt to give the slide a little more push to the JHPs on their ride up the ramp. So I have to disassemble the unit to install the different springs.

Thus, using an alternate guide rod or another new one from Kimber does not fix the situation I am trying to address.
 

rifleshooter474

New member
In answer to the "why" inquiries,

I am having a FTF issue every once in awhile with JHPs. The nose of the bullet stops midway up the barrel feed ramp. When it happens I can barely tap the back of the slide and the round will then easily finish going into battery. I plan to do 2 things:

(1) polish the ramp lightly to hopefully smooth it up somewhat; and
(2) install a set of Wolff springs that are 3 lbs heavier than stock.

The Wolff springs are an attempt to give the slide a little more push to the JHPs on their ride up the ramp. So I have to disassemble the unit to install the different springs.

Thus, using an alternate guide rod or another new one from Kimber does not fix the situation I am trying to address.

A very common problem with flat nosed JHP AMMO. in short bbl 1911s, Better to use the Corbon Pow"R'Ball Ammo. in the small short bbl 1911s.
 

Hootus

New member
Update: mission accomplished. FYI; taking off the stock spring was a walk in the park compared to installing the 21 lb Wolff springs. That was a real mutherbear to get done.

I also polished the barrel ramp with 1500 grit to a much cleaner mirror finish than it had before. Hopefully this will do what it takes to make it reliable with any type of ammo.

As a matter of note; I thought there would not be much difference in 18 lb springs and 21 lb springs. However the slide is noticeably harder to rack now than before. These springs are really beefy.
 

Hootus

New member
Advice noted. If this does not work I'll try the PowRBall. However since I already have been given 200 rounds of Gold Dot as a gift, and prefer a weapon that is reliable as possible no matter the ammo, I hope this works. Plus, I don't use ammo for carry unless I test it in my firearm for many rounds... and that looks to be a pretty expensive exercise with PowRBall.

I'm going to the range next weekend, and see what happens.
 

rifleshooter474

New member
Advice noted. If this does not work I'll try the PowRBall. However since I already have been given 200 rounds of Gold Dot as a gift, and prefer a weapon that is reliable as possible no matter the ammo, I hope this works. Plus, I don't use ammo for carry unless I test it in my firearm for many rounds... and that looks to be a pretty expensive exercise with PowRBall.

I'm going to the range next weekend, and see what happens.

The Gold Dots should be a good choice, let us know if your changes work. I remember my Kimber UC took around 600 rounds before I really trusted it.
 

Hootus

New member
Yeah I keep reading how many rounds are needed to break one in, which is sort of frustrating to learn after paying the amount of money that one of these things cost.... IMO a $1,200+ pistol should not need another brand's magazine, a third brand's springs, and another $500 in ammo costs before it can be trustworthy. The feed ramp on the barrel of my $300 LCP came from the factory smoother than this one.

I am attempting to save a couple hundred dollars of additional ammo breaking it in. I've got about 250~300 rounds through it so far.
 

rifleshooter474

New member
Yeah I keep reading how many rounds are needed to break one in, which is sort of frustrating to learn after paying the amount of money that one of these things cost.... IMO a $1,200+ pistol should not need another brand's magazine, a third brand's springs, and another $500 in ammo costs before it can be trustworthy. The feed ramp on the barrel of my $300 LCP came from the factory smoother than this one.

I am attempting to save a couple hundred dollars of additional ammo breaking it in. I've got about 250~300 rounds through it so far.

Sadly I learned this fact quickly when I bought my Ultra Carry Kimber years ago, this is when Kimber were using the external extractors. My UC has the early designed extractor claw and it has worked fine.
Kimber was over run with complaints about this type extractor (The design most all semi auto handguns use today worldwide) that they returned to the old internal extractor in all their 1911s.

I think most shooters of any handgun will agree that it's a good idea to shoot their handguns a lot before trusting them for carry.

should people pay $1,000+ for a 1911 have to be told they must shoot 500+ rounds before any FTF or FTE problems need to be thought to be a real long term problem? I don't think so, but it remains well known that short bbl.ed 1911s are prone to FTF and FTE problems. And this is not just a Kimber thing.

If you read the other 1911 forums you will find this item about Kimbers has been discussed many times, so it's not something new.
 

Hootus

New member
An update: no more FTF after 120 rounds of various JHPs so I guess this fixed it. Thanks for the repies.
 

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