HELP please 12 Ga reload

[OldOwl]

My brother used to reload maybe 25 years ago, and gave me his machine last year. Seems pretty much the same as the new stuff I see advertised just a slight different configuration. He showed me the stations and what each does, and it all seems to work quite well with one exception. When I'm finished, there is about 1/4 " left over space inside the shell so the shot rattles around. I'm using 2 3/4 inch high brass shells I bought new (Remington) and fires myself. Back when he hunted, there were still paper shells as well as plastic. I'm using all the same equipment, plastic wads, shot, powder, everything he had in the kit. I don't know if I'm using too little powder, shot, or wad ?

Any ideas? Thanks.

Oh ya... and one of my Remington slugger empties says; MAX 1050 BAR. What's that mean?

 

[enfield]

Buy a shotshell reloading manual, such as Lyman's, and follow the recipes exactly - same hull, wad, primer, powder, shot. You won't have any problems.

 

[OldOwl]

Was there ever a shell shorter than 2 3/4 " ? There is a Lymans manual with the equipment and it was supposedly set up right because he was reloading with it back then. Ah ha! Think I found it. Evidently there's 2 adjustments on the fold crimping die. I suspect one or both is out of wack.

I bet some old timers would get a kick out of this book (copyright 1964) It says that a box of 25 shells costs about $3.00 and by reloading you can save $1.71 or about 59% :biggrin:

 

[enfield]

Yes, there was a (European?) shell length of 2-1/2 or 2-9/16. You run into old guns with the short chamber occasionally.

An extra 1/4" of space doesn't sound like a crimp problem. More likely is a problem with too much wad pressure, assuming you have the correct case, powder, wad and shot weight for the load recipe.

I can't load a box of 12 gauge for $5, but I can buy a box for $5.

A 1964 manual probably doesn't cover the hulls you're using -- might need a newer edition.

 

[OldOwl]

Yes, there was a (European?) shell length of 2-1/2 or 2-9/16. You run into old guns with the short chamber occasionally.

An extra 1/4" of space doesn't sound like a crimp problem. More likely is a problem with too much wad pressure, assuming you have the correct case, powder, wad and shot weight for the load recipe.

I can't load a box of 12 gauge for $5, but I can buy a box for $5.

A 1964 manual probably doesn't cover the hulls you're using -- might need a newer edition.

It does cover them, haven't gotten that far yet. It says the new (plastic) for lack of what they said shells were invented last year, and there's a section. I'm going to get this bolted to a desk first dig out all the elements and then start reading more and goofing with it. Thanks for the reply. Appreciate it.

 

[Triggerhappy]

Be very careful

Oldowl,

I reload a LOT of shotshell for trap as well as my own cast slugs and buckshot for 3-gun matches, etc. One thing I see often with people just starting out reloading for shotguns is substituting components. If you're used to metallic reloading you know you can easily (usually) go from one primer manufacturer to another without huge pressure changes within the case. On shotguns the different components make a HUGE difference. Just by changing the brand of primer you can take a soft 8500 PSI load up to well over 11000 PSI. Doesn't take much of a change to cause some serious problems. STICK WITH THE PUBLISHED LOADS IN CURRENT MANUALS.

I wouldn't recommend using that old manual you have to reload with todays components. Many hulls have changed in that time. Also, stick with unified hulls that have a molded base wad. If you have some with a crimped base wad you may find it jammed halfway down your barrel. The way you find it is when you pull the trigger again and it blows your barrel up or at least splits it. I've seen that a couple of times on the trap range from the guys that mix and match their hulls.

High brass shells aren't any better than low brass. Stick with a well known hull design like the Remington Gun Clubs or Winchester AA's when you're starting out. There are a LOT of tested recipes out there for the common components.

On your machine you may have the crimp misadjusted, but if you have 1/2" of clearance I'm betting you have either the wrong wad, not enough shot, or are compressing the wad too much. The recipe you're using may call for an over powder or overshot wad. Again, do not mix and match components.

There can be real danger with a shotshell that's not compressed correctly. The diameter is large enough that the wad doesn't have to move much to cause the possibility of a detonation.

Try to get a 5th Edition Shotshell book. It's well worth the $15.00. Can save you some serious heartache.

Good luck,

TH

 

[OldOwl]

Thanks happy. Will do. I'll have the guy at the gun shop set me up from scratch and discard what I have here. At 5 rounds per second... I don't want ANYTHING getting stuck in my barrel.

 

[Triggerhappy]

5 rounds a second? What are you shooting? Better get a Dillon if you shoot that fast. Reloads about a box every 45 seconds or so.

TH

 

[enfield]

Ever get the feeling you're having your chain jerked?

 

[OldOwl]

Saiga 12. Just bought it Sunday. That's why I want to start reloading. I'm telling you the thing is SICK. And you just can't help yourself. Right out of the box with no mods and me having ZERO experience with a semi auto, it was firing the last round before the first shell hit the ground. Everyone who I let shoot it wants one. Eventually I'll save enough $ to buy 10 and 20 round mags. THEN I'll need a job just to support the gun.

 

[OldOwl]

Ever get the feeling you're having your chain jerked?

YouTube - Shooting an AK47 Shotgun