Does TulAmmo use corrosive primers?

A

ack8910

New member
TulAmmo is Russian-made and is quite cheap, making it a good bulk practice round. The only thing I was wondering was whether or not it used corrosive primers. Anyone know?
 
I believe so. Not positive, but most berdan primed ammo is. I have long since stopped buying their ammo due to performance problems (low charge, bad primer, etc.). It's cheap ammo, but not worth the savings.
 
have had zero issues with the primers, or ammo in either of my ak's. have shot approx. 2500 rounds now . no dirt, or corrosion issues at all. have purchased 10,000 round's of this from cheaper than dirt.
 
Have to admit I have only tried handgun ammo in this brand. Looks like rifle ammo may be better. Still doesn't answer the question of corrosive primers though. As long as you clean after every shoot, it shouldn't be an issue either way. Just don't put 'em away dirty!
 
No:
This is Tula 9mm 115gr. FMJ ammo. This ammo is manufactured in Russia. It has a polymer coated steel case. It is NON-corrosive and Berdan primed. It comes packed in 50rd. boxes, 1000rds. per case.
Ammunition To Go.
I don't actually shoot Tula, but I do shoot cheap Russian steel case stuff all the time. I only clean my AK on February 29th.
 
No its not corrosive, but it is dirty *** stuff to shoot, I clean after each range session, but this stuff is nasty, really craps up your gun, i use it in the Glocks, no way will I run it in my 1911s
 
Non-corrosive.

Be careful, some indoor ranges won't let you shoot these because the projectile is jacketed with copper washed steel.

-Doc
 
I just tried TulAmmo in my .380 LCP for the first time. No problems after 50 rounds, but it is dirty stuff for sure. Not corrosive though. Just using for cheap trigger time.
 
The only squibs I've ever had were Russian ammo. 9mm from Tula Ammo and a .40 squib from Wolf. Neither we any fun at all. Luckily both incidents we instantly detectable from the sound of the squib.(a 'thwup' instead of a bang!) I lost all confidence in the ammo and gave the remainder of the batches to a reloader to dispose of for me. The next time I ran into him at the range he told me he found several low dose charges in the 9mm.
 
It is non corosive crap crap crap crap crap crap.

I have never had so much trouble with ammo as I have had with this stuff. I bought a couple of boxes from Walmart to do some cheap shooting and i so regret it. It won't cycle in my 20" HBAR A3 bushmaster. It seems to be underpowered and won't cycle the carrier group far enough to pick up the next round. It leaves a scratch in the steel casing 3/4 down the side where it doesn't go back far enough.

So after that failure I tried to finish off the partial box in my 9" AR pistol. It cycles but would fail to feed, for some reason the bolt would lock back. Before I could finish the box I had a steel casing stick in the chamber. I had to pound it out with a borrowed cleaning rod. I didn't find someone with a rod until we were about to leave so my gun sat for most of the time we were there.

You could blame it on my ARs or the ammo I had picked up as a bad batch....but. On the way there we stopped and picked up some 40SW for my friend to shoot in his IMI mini desert eagle. He had just as much trouble witht the 40 as I did with the 223. It would FTF and at times when it did feed you could feel the gun hiccup as it would fail to smoothly load the next round. It also locked up twice with the bullet half way up the ramp with both the slide and the mag jammed.

The stuff is crap.
 
Always read the box. Some are and some are.not, Ive seen both. If you are dirt poor and want to shoot it can work in a pinch but you take the poor mans risks.
 
One of my Mini’s has “Eaten” nothing but Tula. No issues and it is old stuff with the most terrible lacquer, steel cases. This Mini, a Ranch with an extreme scope, has had no malfunctions noted so far. Years of use and the steady steel. I do believe it read non-corrosive on the initial orders.
 
One way to tell...

Remove the bullet, pour out the powder, get a piece of non stainless steel to use for test surface. A piece of sheet metal will work well, sand a section to remove any surface coating and expose the raw metal..

Using a pair of vice-grip type pliers to hold the cartridge in position, position the empty primed cartridge over the sanded spot on the sheet metal and strike the primer (gloves, eye & ear protection are good ideas for this test)...
The blast from the primer will deposit material on the sheet metal do not wipe it off.
Place the piece of sheet metal in an area where higher humidity is normal for the environment (bathroom for example)... If rust and corrosion begin forming quickly in the area where the primer blast was focused, chances are the primer material is corrosive (Sodium Petrochlorate).. This is a quick and dirty test... I've tried this with primers from ammo which I know to be corrosive (Russian bulk 7.62x54r) and it works well for testing.. Non corrosive primer material like lead stypnate will not create a corrosive salt and will not rapidly rust the exposed metal... This is an outdoor activity by the way...

If anyone tries this take a few pictures over time... I wish I had done that...
 
Good to know

Warbirds said:
It is non corosive crap crap crap crap crap crap.

I have never had so much trouble with ammo as I have had with this stuff. I bought a couple of boxes from Walmart to do some cheap shooting and i so regret it. It won't cycle in my 20" HBAR A3 bushmaster. It seems to be underpowered and won't cycle the carrier group far enough to pick up the next round. It leaves a scratch in the steel casing 3/4 down the side where it doesn't go back far enough.

So after that failure I tried to finish off the partial box in my 9" AR pistol. It cycles but would fail to feed, for some reason the bolt would lock back. Before I could finish the box I had a steel casing stick in the chamber. I had to pound it out with a borrowed cleaning rod. I didn't find someone with a rod until we were about to leave so my gun sat for most of the time we were there.

You could blame it on my ARs or the ammo I had picked up as a bad batch....but. On the way there we stopped and picked up some 40SW for my friend to shoot in his IMI mini desert eagle. He had just as much trouble witht the 40 as I did with the 223. It would FTF and at times when it did feed you could feel the gun hiccup as it would fail to smoothly load the next round. It also locked up twice with the bullet half way up the ramp with both the slide and the mag jammed.

The stuff is crap.
Click to expand...


Good to know!! I just purchased 100 rounds of this stuff yesterday and there's no way I'm running it through my new Sig. I should have known better than to go with the cheapest ammo I could find. I'll stick with WWB or Federal from now on.

Hopefully I can find someone who doesn't have a problem with Tulammo and will want to buy 100 rounds at a discounted price!!

Thanks for the heads up!
 
Green-Water said:
Good to know!! I just purchased 100 rounds of this stuff yesterday and there's no way I'm running it through my new Sig. I should have known better than to go with the cheapest ammo I could find. I'll stick with WWB or Federal from now on.

Hopefully I can find someone who doesn't have a problem with Tulammo and will want to buy 100 rounds at a discounted price!!

Thanks for the heads up!
Click to expand...

I've run better than 1000 rounds of Tula through my Colt ARs and never had an issue, this would be in addition to Wolf and Brown and Silver Bear ammo.

Every AR I have ever seen with issues with this ammo has been due to how the gun was assembled, or an off-brand gun like the Oly or Bushampster.
 
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