Can't find answer to this either: +p 380 auto


reddragonrph

New member
I can't figure this out. I need a "gun sensei" to teach me some stuff.

I'm looking for ammo on line for my sig p238. I see a place that has 100gr tmj, good price. Marked as new, not reloads. Since most of what I've seen is 90grains(have also seen 85 and 95), not sure what constitutes +p.

Not to mention that I've seen a few sites where it is mentioned that there is no designation for +p for 380 auto. I'm just trying to buy ammo that won't hurt my gun! Maybe I have information overload and nobody to help me sort it out. I was told not to use +p in this weapon, and I don't want to damage my new baby.
 

85, 90 and 95 grain ammo are differing masses of the bullet. +P refers to the pressure when the round is fired. I don't know whether or not .380 comes in a +P , but calibers that do
come in a +P will be designated on the head stamp.
 
As far as I know SAAMI lists pressure tolerances for various calibers and lists what is considered standard pressure, +P, and +P+. From what I've come to understand, there is no listing for a +P loading of 380ACP ammo. Anyone advertising such may be loading to the high end of normal, or overloading. Either way it sounds like misrepresentation at best and dangerous practice at worse. I'd stay away from it.
 
^^ what www315 said

Also to add, there are NO SAAMI specs for the .380 +p, therefore no one will ever "recommend" them since they could all have differing pressures. I personally, for defensive loads, use Speer Gold Dot. Here's the specs on what I use:
Link Removed

I hope this information helps and doesn't put you in complete information overload meltdown. :)
 
As has been said, there is no official .380 +P. I imagine much of this stems from most pistols in this caliber using a blowback setup. Wouldn't be the safest or friendliest round to fire. For my S&W Bodyguard, I use Hornady Critical Defense as testing has shown it performs admirably. Not looking to begin a debate on ammo; just my personal choice. For practice it's American Eagle or Winchester.
 
85, 90 and 95 grain ammo are differing masses of the bullet. +P refers to the pressure when the round is fired. I don't know whether or not .380 comes in a +P , but calibers that do
come in a +P will be designated on the head stamp.
.
.
This is correct. Do not use +p ammo in your gun unless it is +p rated. +p ammo creates higher chamber pressures (and thus higher energies than "normal" rounds of the same caliber) that could damage your firearm and/or injure you.
.
I was unable to find anything that said the Sig P238 is rated for a +p round.
 
Others have covered the technical info. Idk why you'd want +p 380 anyways. If you need more stopping power for a defensive load it's time to move up to the 9mm. Other than that +p doesn't make very good range ammo, and in a direct blowback operated weapon could be very dangerous. Especially since there is no SAAMI rating, the pressures can range extensively.
 
Others have covered the technical info. Idk why you'd want +p 380 anyways. If you need more stopping power for a defensive load it's time to move up to the 9mm. Other than that +p doesn't make very good range ammo, and in a direct blowback operated weapon could be very dangerous. Especially since there is no SAAMI rating, the pressures can range extensively.


I DON"T want +p. I was told it might damage my gun. I wasn't sure whether the +p is ALWAYS marked on there, or whether I was supposed to know some other way. LIke I said....extreme noob here, and I don't really have anyone to ask questions around here. I appreciate all the info, everyone.
 
Unless the manufacturer says your gun is safe for +P loads, then it isn't safe.
Are you simply confused thinking a heavier than normal bullet is +P or do you have some marking on the case that says +P.
Any factory ammunition for .380 Auto will work in your gun.
From the sounds of things, you may want to do some reading about ammunition and guns.
 
My manufacturer says not to use +p, so I was trying to avoid it. I was confused by whether +p is ALWAYS marked, or if I was supposed to know with some other stat on the box. Clearly I am knowledge deficient, this was stated early on by me. If anyone has any good reference material I would be grateful for a referral. I need something that isn't hypertechnical, much like a "Handguns and Ammo for Dummies". I don't know anybody with guns, so I have nobody to ask or talk to.
 
I DON"T want +p. I was told it might damage my gun. I wasn't sure whether the +p is ALWAYS marked on there, or whether I was supposed to know some other way. LIke I said....extreme noob here, and I don't really have anyone to ask questions around here. I appreciate all the info, everyone.


Easy answer is that since they apparently don't make .380 +p you should be good with factory ammo. From what I understand, in most instances the cartridge head stamp should be marked as +p (ie. 9mm Luger +p). There may be exceptions, for example some ammo designed for .38 special guns might be marked as "Super" rather than "+p"

Because most .380's are lightweight and designed for CC, I don't think any of the guns are designed for +p; and by default, I don't think ammo manufacturers would waste time making ammo no one will buy.
 
.38 Super is a totally different cartridge designed for auto loaders, derived from the .38 ACP (not the same as .380 ACP). It doesn't share anything with .38 Special. Can't say I've ever heard of any ammo marketed or stamped as "Super" for a .38 Special.
 
My manufacturer says not to use +p, so I was trying to avoid it. I was confused by whether +p is ALWAYS marked, or if I was supposed to know with some other stat on the box. Clearly I am knowledge deficient, this was stated early on by me. If anyone has any good reference material I would be grateful for a referral. I need something that isn't hypertechnical, much like a "Handguns and Ammo for Dummies". I don't know anybody with guns, so I have nobody to ask or talk to.

If the ammo you're buying is made by a SAAMI-compliant manufacturer, and I'd say nearly all of the large commercial firms in the US are for safety/legal reasons, it will have the proper markings on the box and on the case heads so you know what you're loading your mags with regarding the pressure of the round (+P, +P+, etc.).

As strange as it sounds, you may want to invest in a reloading manual for the sake of understanding how ammunition is loaded, what makes up the various components in a cartridge, how they interface with the various actions whether they're rimless, rimmed, etc. in terms of handguns regarding the headspacing, and other related info. Each reloader typically has a preference or two on reloading data, but I really like and enjoy the Lee reloading manual which can be found easily online or in most reloading supply shops from around $12-$20. The reason I like it so much is for some of the history and explanations given on many of these subjects and quite a few more as it pertains to putting together your own handloads. Even if you never endeavor into reloading it still outfits you with quite a breadth of knowledge on what to look for with regards to troubleshooting some ammo-related problems, plenty of technical data on many cartridges reloaded today including dimensions, etc. Some don't like the Lee book since he tends to market a lot of his products in the book, but it's all done tastefully and I don't believe it detracts from the value of the knowledge he provides and in fact educates you on things to look for in reloading equipment. I personally enjoy and use a lot of their products for reloading. For the true reloader, multiple manuals/books is the way to go to double- and triple-check your data prior to assembling and firing your ammo.

Regarding the subject at hand, I can't think of any .380 ACP ammo off-hand that I'd warn or recommend against using in a firearm over considerations of safety because of the amount of energy expelled with each cartridge, and the +P warning is honestly a generic warning or recommendation found in nearly every firearm manual purchased today for liability reasons. Most guns of modern manufacture from anyone half decent can likely handle at least a handful of +P ammo IF it's produced in said cartridge but the general thought process is it's harder on the gun and should be used sparingly when possible. I'm certain there are genuine cases where heeding the warning is absolutely a must given the type of action or construction of the gun, but generally speaking guns are proofed and made to handle firing a cartridge that's significantly hotter than what you'll shoot at the range for the simple sake of verifying the integrity of the gun and its build strength to protect you from a potential disaster, and the manufacturer themselves in court.
 
All ammunition designations will be stamped on your gun. I agree with others and cannot find any data for +P or +P+ for a 380. Regardless, if the gun accepted those cartridges, it would be imprinted on the gun, usually along the barrel or the slide. Do not use any cartridge not specifically designated for the gun, the best that happens is the gun is damaged, the worst that happens is you or someone close by is damaged when it comes apart during firing.
 
All ammunition designations will be stamped on your gun. I agree with others and cannot find any data for +P or +P+ for a 380. Regardless, if the gun accepted those cartridges, it would be imprinted on the gun, usually along the barrel or the slide. Do not use any cartridge not specifically designated for the gun, the best that happens is the gun is damaged, the worst that happens is you or someone close by is damaged when it comes apart during firing.

There is no difference in the cartridge between .380 and .380 +p or +p+, which means they will fit. No gun will be "imprinted" with a +p, just the caliber. Your owners manual or any info from the gun mfg will be the only way to know if it will shoot +p.
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I personally don't see the advantage. To rely on a gun you need to practice with it. You should practice with the ammo you plan to carry, or a similar grain/velocity etc FMJ ammo. If practicing with ammo that is not recommended for the gun may lead to failure (especially when you really need it) why chance it? If you want to shoot +p ammo, do your research and buy a damn gun designed for it.
 
To wrap up this thread, I'd say we can all agree that as .380 Auto +P doesn't exist, meaning there is no SAAMI specification for it like there is for 9mm Luger +P, .45 ACP +P, etc., that there really shouldn't be any cause for concern here. If someone finds ammo listed as .380 Auto +P, the best advice would be to steer clear since no one has a specification for that pressure rating that's designated as +P in .380 Auto. If you're using ammo that someone has loaded past SAAMI specification and wants to label it as +P, you're doing so at your own risk. I imagine the manuals are printed this way to simply save themselves the legal grief should someone ever devise or develop a SAAMI spec for .380 Auto +P and come to find that their particular gun isn't up to the task. Now you can't say they didn't warn you.
 

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