Burnt powder residue on the casing


Cooter

Liberty or Death
I am new to reloading, and after a few batches of .45 acp, I am getting a burnt residue on the outside of my brass. What is this caused by, and is it a sign of a major problem?

I'm using:

Hodgdon HS-6
CCI large pistol primers
185 gr XTP and 230 gr FMJ
various brass
on a Dillon 550
 

Red Hat

New member
You might want to change your powder. Hodgdon HS-6 has a very slow burn rate. Using it in 45acp it becomes dirty because it can't produce a high enough CPU to burn all the powder. You may want to try a faster burning powder like Hodgdon TITEGROUP. I have very good results with it.

Here is a burn rate chart. HS-6 is 35 and TITEGROUP is 10 on the list. Link Removed
 

astute

New member
Case blackening is normal. The tighter your gun is the less residue you'll have. Remember this is not all bad as the tighter the fit the more prone to failures. Loose guns are dependable guns. Don't worry about black residue on your cases. Faster powder will help, but won't make it go away. HS-6 is a very good, accurate powder, but has a reputation of being dirty. I use what ever I can find cheap as long as it works for the caliber. When I store buy I use TiteGroup.
 

KimberPB

New member
You might want to change your powder. Hodgdon HS-6 has a very slow burn rate. Using it in 45acp it becomes dirty because it can't produce a high enough CPU to burn all the powder. You may want to try a faster burning powder like Hodgdon TITEGROUP. I have very good results with it.

Here is a burn rate chart. HS-6 is 35 and TITEGROUP is 10 on the list. Link Removed

+1. I've been using accurate #2 for my .45 acp target loads. Its a fast burning powder and works great in my 3in 45's. Seems to be accurate and does not leave any burn marks on my cases.
 

Pixx

Pixx
Try using Bullseye. It's fast burning powder and usually all of it burns before the bullet leaves the barrel. Been using it for decades and have had NO PROBLEMS with residue and never any burn marks on the shells.
 

billt

Banned
For what it's worth I purchased one of these inexpensive Ultrasonic Cleaners from Harbor Freight.

2.5 Liter Ultrasonic Cleaner

This model is very similar to the model Hornady sells for over $100.00. I use hot tap water with some dish washing detergent, and run it for 2, 8 minute, (480 second), cycles. The cases come out spotless both inside and out. If you resize and deprime first it will also clean the primer pocket and remove the case lube as well. This process does not polish the cases to a high luster, but it will clean them spotlessly.

After I remove them from the Ultrasonic Cleaner I then rinse them in hot tap water, then set them outside on the patio in the Sun to dry. I then toss them into my Dillon FL-2000 Vibratory Case Cleaner with ground corn cob and some Dillon Rapid Polish for about 4 or 5 hours and they come out cleaner and shinier than new brass. These Ultrasonic Cleaners have become cheap enough to incorporate into the reloading cycle. If you do get one, sign up to Harbor Freight's mailing list first. They send out printable 20% off coupons almost weekly. Bill T.
 

Thumper

New member
You might want to change your powder. Hodgdon HS-6 has a very slow burn rate. Using it in 45acp it becomes dirty because it can't produce a high enough CPU to burn all the powder. You may want to try a faster burning powder like Hodgdon TITEGROUP. I have very good results with it.

Here is a burn rate chart. HS-6 is 35 and TITEGROUP is 10 on the list. Link Removed

Red Hat is right. I just heard that yesterday at the range. For example, if I were to and have loaded 9mm, I was told not to use Bullseye because it does not burn quite fast enough. He told me to try Hodgedon Universal or Clays. Because 9mm's are a high pressure round. Another rule is for 9mm dont use Blue Dot or 2400. Reserve those two for Magnum Loads
 

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