Ammunition Type Question in regards to modern firearms

[CDWilliams05]

I've been shooting for about a year. Plinking on the farm with cans, paper targets, or at the range shooting paper. Looking for something different, and thought of buying some steel targets, for the instant feedback. I know its an ammo thread, so I'll get to the point. The info out there is be careful about shooting steel with FMJ/JHP ammunition due to serperation, it could send back the jacket towards you even if the target is angled to push the round downwards. I have never fired an unjacketed round out of my pistol. Is it okay with modern from factory semi-auto firearms to shoot unjacketed rounds? I have an XDM 9mm and will be getting an SR40 as soon as its delivered. I've seen all the info about ensuring saftey of yourself, but not much in relation to the firearm, and what it will do or information about what to expect in regards to barrel wear/damage if any.

Thanks in advance guys

 

[Purple]

Jacket ammo is safe to shoot at steel target as long as you aren't point blank. You do need to be careful if you are using JHP rounds, as they can back splatter and send shards of the core and jacket back towards the shooter. Stick with the jacketed ball and save the jacketed hollow points for defensive use.

 

[handgonnetoter]

I have read some articles in issues of American Handgunner where guys like John Taffin and Mike "Duke" Venturino would work up certain lead handloads for their 1911's and such, but I think it came down to the harder the lead bullet the better the results out of their pistols. They even did some for guns like the AK and such with good results. I am not a handloader so all I can do is spell out what I have read from the pros.

 

[jtg452]

Just going to lead bullets won't solve the issue. It's a balancing act between the hardness of the alloy used and the velocity you are shooting them at. Harder alloys can and will bounce back if they are shot at a low enough velocity. On the other hand, a really soft alloy (like pure lead or a 20 to 1 lead/tin alloy) may not cause back splatter but can lead the barrel if driven too fast. A bullet made from wheel weights or of an alloy of similar hardness would probably be a good starting place considering the velocities that a 9mm or .40 will be shooting them at. Also, you can always go to one of the heavier bullet weights to keep the velocity low enough to cut down on leading.

If you know any Cowboy Action Shooters (ground shooters- not folks that shoot exclusively Mounted, they use blanks), get with them on the issue. ALL CAS ammo has to be lead projectiles by rule and nobody likes getting hit by bounce backs (whole bullets rebounding) or back splatter (lead fragments). When you find the right balance between alloy and velocity, you either end up with a round that disintegrates on impact or expands to a coin shape and falls to the ground at the base of the target.